TOKYO ATELIER
COTTON FABRIC COLLECTION

This edition of "ORDER JOURNEY" introduces cotton fabrics sourced for autumn/winter at our Tokyo atelier. We'll also offer our suggestions on how these fabrics might look best when tailored with specific details.

Each season, meetings and planning with fabric manufacturers are essential for us to propose new ideas to our customers. There are three key elements that must align before a product can be realized: the fabrics we believe are excellent, the efforts of the fabric manufacturers, and the customer's preferences and desired aesthetic.

If a fabric isn't made into a product, it will remain unseen and might end up dormant in a warehouse by the next season. We hope you'll enjoy our proposals as we introduce as many fabrics as possible.

[U.S.ARMY HERRINGBONE / Cream / Duck Stop]

This fabric is a reconstructed version based on the US-ARMY M43 Trousers Herringbone. The high-density woven herringbone combines durability with breathability, and by omitting mercerization, it expresses the natural fullness and dry texture of cotton.

This fabric possesses the rustic look typical of cotton while also having a firm crispness, and its texture only improves with wear. It is truly a fabric designed for daily use. We recommend tailoring it into a rugged yet light pair of casual chinos with a large L-pocket, making it a perfect match for the duck stop style.

[M52 FRENCH SERGE / Beige Khaki / Single Gurkha]

This fabric reconstructs the material of the French Army M-52 Chino Trousers. By combining yarns of different counts and uneven shapes, it reproduces the unique unevenness and depth of vintage fabrics. By omitting singing and mercerization and adopting Luciol drying (hot air drying on a mesh), stress on the fabric is minimized, resulting in a dry touch that utilizes the fabric's natural fullness.

While evoking a military heritage, its elegant coloration ensures it never becomes overly rugged. Imagining military-style baker pants, if tailored as a single Gurkha (turn-back specification), it promises to be a pair that blends classic and military styles.

[JUNGLE FATIGUE RIP-STOP / Green / Side Adjuster]

Based on reproduction material of US military jungle fatigue pants, this fabric is made thicker and firmer than ordinary ripstop by increasing the yarn count and number of wefts.

Ripstop, characterized by its grid-like reinforcing weave, is inherently a rugged fabric used for outdoor and military purposes. By daring to incorporate it into high-quality trousers, the fabric's interesting qualities and aging process truly stand out. We envision tailoring it into a refined yet relaxed pair with a two-out-pleat, side-adjuster design.

[Bedford cord / Black / 5-pocket]

Bedford cord is a traditional heavy woven fabric with excellent durability and unique shading, said to have been developed in Bedfordshire, England, in the 18th century. At first glance, it closely resembles corduroy, a classic autumn/winter material, but its structure and feel are significantly different. While corduroy creates a fluffy nap by cutting pile threads, Bedford cord uses a special double weave (a type of pique weave) that raises the warp threads. Its main feature is a distinct, three-dimensional vertical ridge without surface nap, offering a smooth, dry texture.

The matte black color naturally enhances the fabric's ruggedness. Evoking French workwear, we believe this pair, designed with a rivet-free 5-pocket style, allows you to experience the coolness of tailoring a work-style fabric in a work-appropriate manner.

[Salt&Pepper Bedford cord / Grey Mix / Hollywood Top]

This is a different color variation of the aforementioned Bedford cord fabric. The mottled, heathered texture creates an elegant color scheme, giving a casual material a sophisticated hue. When paired with a classic Hollywood top (2-in-pleat) design, it should become a pair that blends elegantly into jacket-and-trouser styles.

As its name suggests, "Salt & Pepper," the mottled appearance created by the blend of white and black threads offers a depth and three-dimensionality that solid colors cannot achieve. The way its expression changes depending on the light is another unique charm of this fabric.

This time, we focused on introducing cotton fabrics with a bit more weight. Of course, we have many other fabrics available as well. We hope this serves as a reference for your preparations for the 2026 autumn/winter season.

The fabrics introduced in this article can be tailored through our BESPOKE and MTM services. Please note that the specific details mentioned are only available for BESPOKE orders. The current lead times are 3 months for MTM and 4-5 months for BESPOKE. Additionally, please be aware that the featured fabrics may go out of stock without prior notice. If you are interested in any particular fabric or detail, please feel free to contact us.

Tokyo Atelier
Manor Fuji 102, 8-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052
TEL 090-2190-5365
Opening Hours: 10:00 - 19:00 (Last entry 18:30)
Closed: Mondays
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